Walk into any barbershop today and you’ll notice something interesting. That slicked-back style from the 1950s? It’s back. The pompadour? More popular than ever. And behind every one of those sharp, polished looks sits a product that’s been around since before your grandparents were born—pomade.
But here’s the thing. Modern pomade isn’t the same greasy concoction your grandfather might’ve used. It’s evolved. Changed. Gotten better at what it does while becoming easier to work with and wash out.
If you’ve been wondering what pomade actually is, how it works, and whether it’s the right styling product for your hair, you’re in the right place. We’re going to break down everything about this classic grooming staple—from its surprisingly long history to how you can use it today to nail the hairstyle you’re after.
What Is Hair Pomade?
Pomade is a hair styling product designed to give your hair hold, control, and shine. Think of it as the middle ground between hair gel’s stiff hold and hair wax’s matte finish. It’s thick, often creamy or waxy in texture, and when worked through your hair, it helps you shape and style it while keeping everything in place throughout the day.
The word “pomade” comes from the French pommade, which itself traces back to the Italian pomata—derived from pomo, meaning apple. Back in the Early Modern Period, pomades were ointments made from various fats mixed with mashed apples to add fragrance. Wild, right?
Today’s pomades skip the mashed fruit but keep the core purpose: controlling your hair while adding shine and definition. Most pomades contain ingredients like beeswax, lanolin, petroleum jelly, or natural oils that create that characteristic smooth, pliable texture.
What sets pomade apart from other styling products is its versatility. You can build up the hold gradually by layering it in. You can restyle your hair throughout the day without reapplying. And depending on which type you choose, you can achieve anything from a sky-high pompadour to a laid-back textured look.
The product typically gives hair a shiny, slick appearance—though modern formulas now offer matte options too. It lasts longer than most hair products, providing all-day hold without making your hair feel crunchy or stiff like gel does.
The History of Pomade
Pomade’s story goes back way further than you might expect. The ancient Egyptians used substances similar to pomade—made from animal fats and other ingredients—to style their hair and wigs. This wasn’t just about looking good. It was about hygiene and protection from the harsh desert sun.
Fast forward to the 19th century, and bear fat became the main ingredient in most pomades. Yes, you read that right. Bear fat. In 1873, Morgan’s Pomade launched in the UK, selling Hair Darkening Pomade across the world. By the early 20th century, thankfully, petroleum jelly, beeswax, and lard had replaced bear fat as the go-to ingredients.
Pomades hit their peak popularity between the 1920s and 1950s. This was the golden era of slicked-back hair and perfectly sculpted styles. Icons like Elvis Presley, James Dean, and Chuck Berry made the pompadour a cultural phenomenon. Young men everywhere were reaching for products like Murray’s Superior Pomade (launched in 1925), Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade (1934), and Royal Crown Pomade (1936).
Then came the 1960s and ’70s. The Beatles arrived with their mop-top cuts, and suddenly the heavily styled pompadour fell out of favor. Hair gel took over as the go-to styling product, and pomade faded into the background.
But here’s where it gets interesting. During the 2010s, pomade made a massive comeback. Shows like Peaky Blinders and World War II films brought back the disconnected undercut hairstyle—characterized by buzzed sides and much longer hair on top. Celebrities like David Beckham and Brad Pitt were spotted sporting the look. The style demands a product with heavy hold and a slick finish to control that long top hair, and pomade fits the bill perfectly.
Today’s pomade market offers both traditional oil-based formulas and modern water-based options, giving you the best of both worlds—classic styling with contemporary convenience.
Types of Pomade
Not all pomades are created equal. Walk down the hair care aisle and you’ll find options labeled water-based, oil-based, and wax-based. Each type serves different needs and delivers different results. Let’s break them down.
Water-Based Pomade
Water-based pomade has become the most popular choice for modern guys, and it’s easy to see why. These pomades use water as their primary base, which means they wash out easily—usually in just one shower. No need for multiple rounds of shampooing or harsh clarifying products.
The formula typically includes ingredients like castor oil, glycerin, or linalool mixed with water. When you apply it to damp hair, it activates and spreads evenly. On dry hair, you’ll get a more matte finish. On damp hair, expect more shine and sheen.
Water-based pomades offer strong hold but remain flexible throughout the day. You can run your hands through your hair and restyle as needed without reapplying product. They won’t leave your hair feeling greasy or looking overly slick unless that’s the look you’re going for.
There’s a subset of water-based pomades called gel pomades. These contain hardening agents like polyvinyl pyrolidone. They dry stiffer and hold a particular style firmly, but you’ll need to wet your hair if you want to restyle during the day. Popular gel pomades include brands like Suavecito and Layrite.
Then there are “unorthodox” water-based pomades. These mimic the pliable qualities of oil-based pomades while still washing out easily. They stay workable all day without drying or hardening. If you want flexibility without the hassle of oil-based formulas, this is your sweet spot.
Oil-Based Pomade
Oil-based pomade is the traditional, old-school option—the kind your grandfather probably used. These formulas use petroleum jelly, wax, or grease as their base. During the Roman era, soap was used as a pomade. By the 1950s and ’60s, petroleum-based products dominated, giving rise to the term “greaser.”
The main advantage? Oil-based pomade never dries out. It stays pliable and shiny all day, allowing you to restyle whenever you want. You get that classic wet look with serious hold that can last for days—yes, days—without needing to reapply.
But there’s a catch. Actually, several catches. Oil-based pomades are notoriously difficult to wash out. You’ll need multiple washes, often with strong clarifying shampoos, to fully remove the product. Some guys report needing three or four washes before their hair feels clean again.
The buildup issue is real. If you don’t thoroughly wash out oil-based pomade, it can clog hair follicles, potentially leading to scalp problems or even impeding hair growth. The greasy residue can also transfer to your pillowcase, which might contribute to acne breakouts, especially along your forehead.
Oil-based pomades work well for thick or coarse hair that needs serious control. They’re also the choice if you’re committed to authentic vintage styles like a true 1950s pompadour. Just be prepared for the commitment—both to the style and to the extra washing.
Wax-Based (Clay) Pomade
Wax-based pomades, often called clay pomades, occupy a middle ground between traditional pomades and hair wax. These products contain bentonite clay or other natural clays as a primary ingredient. Bentonite is a naturally occurring volcanic ash that’s been used for centuries for its healing properties.
Clay pomades typically offer a matte to semi-matte finish with medium to high hold. They’re lightweight but powerful, adding volume and texture without weighing your hair down. This makes them perfect for guys with fine or thinning hair who want to create the appearance of fuller, thicker hair.
The clay works by binding hair follicles together, creating structure and stability. It also absorbs excess oil from your scalp, which can help control grease and give your hair a drier, more natural look. If you’ve got naturally oily hair, clay pomade acts as a counterbalance.
Modern wax-based pomades are typically water-soluble, washing out much easier than traditional oil-based options. They don’t leave your hair feeling sticky or greasy, and they won’t transfer onto your clothes or pillow.
One thing to note: clay is intentionally drying. If you already have dry or brittle hair, using a clay pomade might make it feel even drier. You’ll want to make sure you’re using a good conditioner and not over-shampooing if you go this route.
Key Ingredients in Modern Pomades
Modern pomades have come a long way from bear fat and lard. Today’s formulas blend natural and synthetic ingredients to deliver hold, shine, and hair health benefits. Here’s what you’ll typically find inside that jar.
Beeswax is one of the most common ingredients. It provides strong hold without being overly greasy. Beeswax also adds a natural shine and helps seal in moisture, protecting your hair from environmental damage. Some pomades use vegetable waxes like carnauba or candelilla as vegan alternatives.
Natural oils like coconut oil, argan oil, and almond oil show up frequently in quality pomades. These oils strengthen and nourish your hair while providing a surprisingly firm hold. Coconut oil, for instance, penetrates deep into the hair shaft, improving overall health while making your hair feel softer and look shinier.
Shea butter appears in many cream-based and natural pomades. It’s incredibly moisturizing, which helps prevent dryness and breakage. Shea butter also adds body and volume to hair, making it a great choice for guys with thin or fine hair.
You’ll often see aloe vera listed in water-based formulas. Aloe soothes your scalp, strengthens hair, and helps prevent inflammation or irritation. It’s a powerhouse ingredient that benefits both your hair and the skin underneath.
Some pomades include plant extracts and herbs—things like rosemary, marshmallow root, or spirulina. These ingredients add nutrients, promote hair growth, and can even help with scalp conditions. Premium pomades often feature these botanical ingredients instead of synthetic chemicals.
On the flip side, cheaper pomades might contain synthetic polymers, preservatives, and artificial fragrances. These ingredients extend shelf life and reduce manufacturing costs, but they can dry out your hair or irritate your scalp. When shopping for pomade, scan the ingredient list. If you can’t pronounce it or don’t know what it is, that’s usually a red flag.
Pomade vs. Other Hair Products
The hair styling aisle can feel overwhelming. Pomade, gel, wax, clay, paste—what’s the difference, and which one should you grab? Here’s how pomade stacks up against the competition.
Pomade vs. Hair Gel
Hair gel might be the most well-known styling product, but it’s also probably the most hated. We’ve all got stories of gel-induced hair disasters—that crunchy, stiff texture, the white flakes, the inability to touch your hair without disturbing the style.
Gel offers rock-solid hold by coating and binding hair strands together, then drying them into a fixed position. It’s great if you’re going for gravity-defying spikes or an absolutely immovable style. But once gel dries, you’re locked in. No restyling, no flexibility, no running your hands through your hair.
Pomade, on the other hand, stays pliable all day. You get strong hold without the stiffness. Your hair still feels like hair, not like a helmet. You can restyle as needed without reapplying product.
Gel also tends to dry out your hair over time. The alcohol-based formulas strip natural oils from your hair and scalp, potentially leading to brittleness, breakage, and flaking. Pomade—especially natural formulas—actually nourishes and protects your hair while styling it.
The verdict? If you need maximum hold for a specific structured style and don’t mind the crunch, gel works. For pretty much everything else, pomade is the better call.
Pomade vs. Hair Wax
Hair wax shares some similarities with pomade, but there are important differences. Wax is typically made with—surprise—wax as the main ingredient. It offers moderate hold with less shine than pomade.
Wax works well for shorter styles and creates a textured, matte look. It stays pliable throughout the day, so you can restyle your hair by running your hands through it. For guys who like that messy, casual vibe, wax delivers.
The key difference is application and effect. You apply wax to dry hair, while pomade typically goes on damp or towel-dried hair. Wax adds definition and separation to individual strands, creating that piecey texture. Pomade smooths and controls hair, creating a more polished, cohesive look.
Pomade generally offers stronger hold than wax. If you’re trying to achieve a pompadour or slicked-back style, wax won’t give you the staying power you need. But if you’re rocking a short crop and want to add some texture and definition, wax might be your go-to.
Some guys find that wax can feel sticky or difficult to distribute evenly. Pomade, once warmed between your palms, tends to spread more smoothly through your hair.
Pomade vs. Clay
Clay products have exploded in popularity over the past decade, and for good reason. They offer fantastic volume and a natural matte finish. But how do they compare to pomade?
Hair clay typically contains bentonite clay as the star ingredient. This natural volcanic ash adds incredible thickness and body to your hair. It’s lightweight, so it won’t weigh down fine or thin hair. Clay absorbs excess oil, making it perfect for guys with naturally oily hair or those who want a dry, matte finish.
Pomade, especially water-based versions, offers more versatility in terms of shine. You can control the finish by applying to damp hair (more shine) or dry hair (more matte). Clay pretty much always delivers a matte look.
Hold-wise, both products offer solid performance, but in different ways. Clay gives you volume and lift at the roots—it makes your hair feel “fatter.” Pomade gives you control and structure, smoothing hair into place while adding shine.
Clay is intentionally drying, which works great if you’re fighting greasy hair but can be problematic if your hair is already dry. Pomade formulas, especially those with natural oils, tend to be more moisturizing.
Many modern styling products blur the line between clay and pomade. You’ll find hybrid formulas that combine clay with wax or oils to offer volume, hold, and a bit of shine. These “clay pomades” aim to give you the best of both worlds.
Benefits of Using Pomade
Why should you choose pomade over the dozen other styling products out there? Here are the real advantages that make pomade worth a spot in your grooming routine.
All-day hold without stiffness. This is pomade’s superpower. You get the control you need to keep your hairstyle intact from morning coffee to evening drinks, but your hair still moves naturally. No helmet head, no crunchy texture—just hair that stays where you put it while still feeling like hair.
Incredible shine and definition. If you want your hair to look healthy and well-maintained, pomade delivers. It adds a glossy finish that makes even dry, damaged hair look better. The shine isn’t greasy or overdone (unless you’re using an oil-based formula), just a natural-looking luster that catches the light.
Flexibility to restyle throughout the day. Had a Zoom meeting in the morning and drinks with friends at night? No problem. Pomade stays workable all day, so you can adjust your style as needed. Run your hands through your hair, add a bit of water, and reshape it. Try doing that with gel.
Prevents frizz and flyaways. Pomade smooths down those annoying stray hairs that stick up or out. It controls frizz without weighing your hair down, giving you a polished, put-together look even on humid days.
Can support hair health and growth. Quality pomades—especially those with natural ingredients like oils, aloe vera, and plant extracts—actually nourish your hair and scalp. Some formulas contain ingredients like biotin, caffeine, saw palmetto, and green tea that promote healthy hair growth. You’re styling and caring for your hair at the same time.
Works for multiple hair types and lengths. Whether your hair is thick, thin, curly, straight, short, or medium-length, there’s a pomade that’ll work for you. This versatility makes it a solid investment compared to specialty products that only work for one specific hair type.
How to Apply Pomade Correctly
Getting the most out of pomade isn’t complicated, but there’s definitely a right way and a wrong way to do it. Follow this process and you’ll nail your hairstyle every time.
Start with the right hair condition. For most pomades, you want your hair to be damp—not soaking wet, not bone dry. After washing, towel-dry your hair until it’s just slightly moist. This helps activate the pomade and allows it to spread evenly. Some guys prefer to apply pomade to completely dry hair for a more matte look, which works too.
Use less than you think you need. This is where most guys mess up. Start with a dime-sized amount for short to medium hair. You can always add more, but removing excess pomade is a pain. Scoop out a small amount with your finger.
Warm it up between your palms. Pomade at room temperature can be thick and difficult to work with. Rub it vigorously between your palms for 10-15 seconds until it becomes softer and more pliable. You’ll notice it starts to feel smoother and easier to spread. This step ensures even distribution and prevents clumping.
Start from the roots and work outward. Apply pomade to the roots first, massaging it in with your fingertips. This gives you the foundation for your style and ensures your hair has support from the base. Then work the product through the lengths of your hair using your palms and fingers.
Distribute evenly. Run your fingers through your hair in different directions to make sure the pomade is spread throughout. You don’t want clumps or uneven coverage. If you’re going for a natural style, use your fingers to create texture and shape.
Comb or brush for polished styles. If you’re creating a pompadour, slick-back, or side part, grab a comb at this stage. Use it to shape your hair precisely and smooth out any bumps or irregularities. For a more casual look, skip the comb and use your fingers to tousle and define.
Blow dry for extra volume and hold (optional). If you want more lift and staying power, hit your styled hair with a blow dryer on medium heat. Aim the nozzle upward at the roots while lifting hair with your free hand or a round brush. This sets the pomade and gives you impressive volume.
Different Hairstyles You Can Create with Pomade
Pomade’s versatility means you can pull off a huge range of looks. Here are some classic and contemporary styles that work beautifully with pomade.
The Pompadour is pomade’s signature style. This high-volume look features hair swept upward and back from the forehead, creating dramatic height on top with shorter or faded sides. Apply a generous amount of pomade to damp hair, blow dry while brushing upward, then use a comb to shape the front section into that iconic pomp. A strong-hold pomade is non-negotiable here.
The Slicked-Back delivers instant sophistication. It’s the boardroom-ready style that says you’ve got your act together. Apply pomade to damp hair, then comb everything straight back from your forehead. For maximum shine, use an oil-based pomade. For a more modern, less greasy version, go with a water-based formula. This style works for medium to long hair.
The Side Part is timeless and professional. Create a clean, defined part on one side using a comb, then style the hair on each side accordingly. Pomade gives you the precision you need for that sharp part line while adding shine and hold. It’s a classic look that works in virtually any setting.
The Undercut Combover combines modern edge with retro polish. The sides are buzzed or faded short while the top is much longer and swept over to one side. Pomade controls that longer top section, giving you the sleek finish and hold you need. This style surged in popularity during the 2010s and remains a go-to.
The Quiff sits somewhere between a pompadour and a fauxhawk. Hair is styled upward and slightly forward from the forehead, creating volume and height but with a more casual, less sculpted look than a full pompadour. Medium-hold pomade works well here, giving you structure without looking overly styled.
Textured Casual Styles can be achieved with lighter pomades or clay-based formulas. Apply a small amount, work it through with your fingers, and tousle your hair into a messy, natural-looking style. This works great for shorter hair or if you’re going for that effortless “I woke up like this” vibe.
Choosing the Right Pomade for Your Hair Type
Your hair type makes a big difference in which pomade will work best. Here’s how to match product to hair.
Thick or coarse hair needs a pomade with serious holding power. Oil-based pomades or heavy-duty water-based formulas work well because they can actually control all that hair. Your thick locks can handle the weight of pomade without looking limp. Clay-based pomades might not provide enough hold unless you use a generous amount.
Fine or thin hair requires a lighter touch. Heavy pomades will weigh down your hair and make it look flat and greasy. Go with a lightweight water-based pomade or clay pomade that adds volume and texture without clumping strands together. Clay is especially good here because it makes individual hairs feel thicker and adds body at the roots.
Curly or wavy hair responds well to pomade because it controls frizz and defines curls. Water-based pomades or cream formulas work beautifully—they smooth the hair cuticle and lock in moisture without weighing down the curls. Apply to damp hair and scrunch or finger-style rather than combing, which can disrupt your natural curl pattern.
Straight hair is the most versatile when it comes to pomade. You can pretty much use any type and achieve good results. If you want a polished, shiny look, go with a water-based or oil-based pomade. For more texture and a matte finish, choose a clay-based option. Straight hair is also easiest to comb and style, so you’ve got the most options.
Dry or damaged hair benefits from pomades with nourishing ingredients like natural oils, shea butter, or aloe vera. Avoid anything with harsh alcohols or synthetic chemicals that’ll dry your hair out further. Oil-based pomades can actually help by sealing in moisture, though you’ll need to deal with the wash-out challenges.
Oily hair pairs well with clay-based pomades or lighter water-based formulas. Clay absorbs excess sebum from your scalp, giving you a drier, more matte finish. Stay away from heavy oil-based pomades, which will make your hair look greasier.
Does Pomade Cause Hair Loss?
This question comes up constantly, and it’s worth addressing head-on. No, pomade does not cause hair loss—at least not quality pomade used correctly. There’s no research showing that applying pomade to your hair leads to accelerated balding or thinning.
The confusion likely comes from a few sources. First, low-quality pomades with harsh chemicals, petroleum, and synthetic ingredients can damage hair health over time. If you’re using cheap stuff loaded with questionable ingredients, yes, you might experience breakage or scalp issues. But that’s not the pomade as a product type—it’s the poor formula.
Second, oil-based pomades that aren’t washed out properly can cause problems. When petroleum-based products build up on your scalp, they can clog hair follicles. This buildup might impede normal hair growth or create an unhealthy scalp environment. Some guys also develop acne on their foreheads or scalp from greasy pomade residue. Again, this is a hygiene and product-choice issue, not an inherent pomade problem.
Third, aggressive styling can contribute to hair loss. If you’re constantly pulling and tugging on your hair to create super-tight, high-tension styles, you might experience traction alopecia—hair loss caused by repeated pulling. But that’s the styling technique, not the pomade.
Here’s the reality: High-quality pomades can actually support hair health. Formulas with natural ingredients like oils, plant extracts, biotin, and caffeine nourish your scalp and hair. They provide moisture, protect against environmental damage, and can even promote healthier hair growth.
If you’re concerned about hair loss, choose a natural, water-based pomade with ingredients you recognize. Wash it out regularly—don’t let product build up on your scalp for days. And if you’re experiencing significant hair loss, talk to a dermatologist. It’s almost certainly not the pomade causing it.
Final Thoughts
Pomade has earned its place as a grooming essential for good reason. It offers versatility, performance, and style options that other products simply can’t match. Whether you’re going for a sharp, professional look or a casual, textured style, there’s a pomade out there that’ll help you nail it.
The key is understanding what you’re working with. Know your hair type, choose the right formula, and apply it correctly. Start with a small amount, warm it up, and work it through evenly. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different types—water-based for easy washing, oil-based for maximum shine and hold, or clay-based for volume and a matte finish.
Quality matters. Invest in pomades with natural ingredients that actually benefit your hair rather than damage it. Your hair and scalp will thank you, and your styles will look better and last longer.
Pomade isn’t just a product from a bygone era that’s made a nostalgic comeback. It’s a legitimate styling tool that works, plain and simple. Once you find the right one for your hair and master the application, you’ll wonder how you ever styled your hair without it.
